Date   

Re: Landoll harmonic balancer

berkut13
 

“Balancer” is the wrong term for this unit.  It is a “Dampener”.  Its purpose is to dampen harmonic vibrations, not balance a rotating mass.

 

-James

Berkut/Race 13

 

 

 

From: canard-aviators@canardzone.groups.io [mailto:canard-aviators@canardzone.groups.io] On Behalf Of Todd Carrico
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2021 2:19 PM
To: canard-aviators@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [c-a] Landfill harmonic balancer

 

6 months ago, vincefrazier@... said they were working on making new ones.  He said they would probably sell them here:

 

I don't see them listed, so I sent him an email.

 

tc

 

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:

Hi All,

 

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

 

Bill Allen

CZ4 G-BYLZ

LE160 N99BA

--


Re: BR8ES Plugs with electronic ignition/O-320

aviationeyes
 


Hi Tim,
My engine type was referenced in the subject line! You are right, about the screw terminals and happily I have the solid top. Based on your comments and others', I'll give them a try. I just have to wonder how a $10 dollar spark plug (e.g., the W24 EMR-C) can be so much better than these $2 types. 
--Jose

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021, at 2:12 PM, Tim Andres wrote:
You dont say what engine you have, but that plug is probably the most popular in the experimental community for 0-320/360 Lycoming  
The BR8ES comes in 2 part numbers, solid top and screw on. You want to solid too ones, the screw on terminals can be used but have caused problems if they come loose. 


On Sep 21, 2021, at 9:52 AM, aviationeyes <skyeyecorp@...> wrote:

I've been using the same W24 EMR-C for the last 3-4 years (~150hrs) and other than a little cleaning at condition inspections, they have given me reliable engine operation.  I probably don't need to change them even now, but their outsides are getting ugly with surface rust. Someone recently gave me a new pack of NGK BR8ES plugs. These are standard (i.e., no exotic metal tip electrodes) plugs otherwise having the same threads/heat range/reach as the W24 plugs. Does anyone see any problems or have any reports with using them?
--Jose




-- 
  



Re: BR8ES Plugs with electronic ignition/O-320

Bulent Aliev
 

For 10 years I flew with:


Denso (5312) IK27 Iridium Spark Plugs for Plasma and

 P-Mag

Electrode gap 0.30-0.32

Sp plug torque 15 ft lb

Adapter 25 ft lb


On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 4:48 PM Tony Rothwell <tony13rothwell@...> wrote:
they work for me.

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 04:12, Tim Andres <tim2542@...> wrote:
You dont say what engine you have, but that plug is probably the most popular in the experimental community for 0-320/360 Lycoming  
The BR8ES comes in 2 part numbers, solid top and screw on. You want to solid too ones, the screw on terminals can be used but have caused problems if they come loose. 


On Sep 21, 2021, at 9:52 AM, aviationeyes <skyeyecorp@...> wrote:


I've been using the same W24 EMR-C for the last 3-4 years (~150hrs) and other than a little cleaning at condition inspections, they have given me reliable engine operation.  I probably don't need to change them even now, but their outsides are getting ugly with surface rust. Someone recently gave me a new pack of NGK BR8ES plugs. These are standard (i.e., no exotic metal tip electrodes) plugs otherwise having the same threads/heat range/reach as the W24 plugs. Does anyone see any problems or have any reports with using them?
--Jose



--
Bulent Aliev
Enginegear
ph +1 954.557.1019
fax +1 386.957.4473
Bulent@...
www.enginegearonline.com


Re: BR8ES Plugs with electronic ignition/O-320

Tony Rothwell
 

they work for me.

On Wed, 22 Sept 2021 at 04:12, Tim Andres <tim2542@...> wrote:
You dont say what engine you have, but that plug is probably the most popular in the experimental community for 0-320/360 Lycoming  
The BR8ES comes in 2 part numbers, solid top and screw on. You want to solid too ones, the screw on terminals can be used but have caused problems if they come loose. 


On Sep 21, 2021, at 9:52 AM, aviationeyes <skyeyecorp@...> wrote:


I've been using the same W24 EMR-C for the last 3-4 years (~150hrs) and other than a little cleaning at condition inspections, they have given me reliable engine operation.  I probably don't need to change them even now, but their outsides are getting ugly with surface rust. Someone recently gave me a new pack of NGK BR8ES plugs. These are standard (i.e., no exotic metal tip electrodes) plugs otherwise having the same threads/heat range/reach as the W24 plugs. Does anyone see any problems or have any reports with using them?
--Jose




Re: BR8ES Plugs with electronic ignition/O-320

Tim Andres
 

You dont say what engine you have, but that plug is probably the most popular in the experimental community for 0-320/360 Lycoming  
The BR8ES comes in 2 part numbers, solid top and screw on. You want to solid too ones, the screw on terminals can be used but have caused problems if they come loose. 


On Sep 21, 2021, at 9:52 AM, aviationeyes <skyeyecorp@...> wrote:


I've been using the same W24 EMR-C for the last 3-4 years (~150hrs) and other than a little cleaning at condition inspections, they have given me reliable engine operation.  I probably don't need to change them even now, but their outsides are getting ugly with surface rust. Someone recently gave me a new pack of NGK BR8ES plugs. These are standard (i.e., no exotic metal tip electrodes) plugs otherwise having the same threads/heat range/reach as the W24 plugs. Does anyone see any problems or have any reports with using them?
--Jose




BR8ES Plugs with electronic ignition/O-320

aviationeyes
 

I've been using the same W24 EMR-C for the last 3-4 years (~150hrs) and other than a little cleaning at condition inspections, they have given me reliable engine operation.  I probably don't need to change them even now, but their outsides are getting ugly with surface rust. Someone recently gave me a new pack of NGK BR8ES plugs. These are standard (i.e., no exotic metal tip electrodes) plugs otherwise having the same threads/heat range/reach as the W24 plugs. Does anyone see any problems or have any reports with using them?
--Jose




Re: Landfill harmonic balancer

Nick U
 

I recently installed a balance ring system from Balance Masters to test out.  http://www.balancemasters.com

I can report that the balance ring system by this company DOES NOT WORK.   For reference I used my Aces Electronic Balancer to test vibration out both before and after installation.  


Unbalanced (no weights on flywheel) the Aces indicated .03”/sec balance.  When the balance ring was installed the best it would give me is .17”/sec balance at 2100 and 2200 rpm.

I then took the ring off and balanced the engine/prop to around .02”/sec at 2200 rpm..  After reinstallation of the ring and the balance went up to .19”/sec which was quite a surprise.  The ring never reduced the inbalance to anything close to what I was able to achieve to with the electronic balancer at 2200 rpm even after running the engine for longer than the specified 2 minutes at a steady rpm.

I did notice a possible reduction of vibration at cruise rpm, but it is only a seat of the pants estimate.  It felt a bit different, but not $400 worth of difference in my book.

I returned the balance ring, rebalanced the engine/prop with the Aces, down to .01”/sec and saved myself some $$.   I am not saying that a competitive or different type of balance system would not work, but in this case with this product, it did not.


Nick Ugolini




On Sep 20, 2021, at 4:46 PM, Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:

Is Mark Landoll still around?

If anyone has his contact details, he might not mind answering that question….

On Mon, 20 Sep 2021 at 22:44, Todd Carrico <tcarrico.cozy@...> wrote:
here is the response i got:
" It's not a high priority, but the machinist does have the unit disassembled and measured. 

The biggest hurdle is finding someone who knows EXACTLY what the gel inside the originals was.  Find that out and we can make some.

Thanks,
Vince"

does anyone know that answer?

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:18 PM Todd Carrico via groups.io <tcarrico.cozy=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

6 months ago, vincefrazier@... said they were working on making new ones.  He said they would probably sell them here:


I don't see them listed, so I sent him an email.

tc

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
-- 






-- 


Re: Landfill harmonic balancer

Bill Allen
 

Is Mark Landoll still around?

If anyone has his contact details, he might not mind answering that question….

On Mon, 20 Sep 2021 at 22:44, Todd Carrico <tcarrico.cozy@...> wrote:
here is the response i got:
" It's not a high priority, but the machinist does have the unit disassembled and measured. 

The biggest hurdle is finding someone who knows EXACTLY what the gel inside the originals was.  Find that out and we can make some.

Thanks,
Vince"

does anyone know that answer?

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:18 PM Todd Carrico via groups.io <tcarrico.cozy=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

6 months ago, vincefrazier@... said they were working on making new ones.  He said they would probably sell them here:


I don't see them listed, so I sent him an email.

tc

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
--

--


Re: Landfill harmonic balancer

Todd Carrico
 

here is the response i got:
" It's not a high priority, but the machinist does have the unit disassembled and measured. 

The biggest hurdle is finding someone who knows EXACTLY what the gel inside the originals was.  Find that out and we can make some.

Thanks,
Vince"

does anyone know that answer?

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:18 PM Todd Carrico via groups.io <tcarrico.cozy=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

6 months ago, vincefrazier@... said they were working on making new ones.  He said they would probably sell them here:


I don't see them listed, so I sent him an email.

tc

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
--


Re: Battering Batteries

Bill Allen
 

<< Curious how many people have battery mounts / housings that vent to the outside...>>

I just completed a full repanel and rewire of my CZ4 which included the fitting of an EarthX battery.

Having been involved in automotive engineering almost (but not quite yet) all my life, and having seen 3 major meltdown/explosions, I sprung the extra bucks and went with the vented version.

Most Cozy battery’s are mounted on the main spar too, so I also mounted the battery box on a 1” pad of ceramic insulation material. Worst case scenario is a battery meltdown that doesn’t just try to gas you, it tries to melt the centre section spar too.

If it’s easy and cheap to minimise this possibility, it’s time and money well spent IMHO.

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
VE N2CR
Berkut G-REDX

On Mon, 20 Sep 2021 at 19:49, Saro Marcarian via groups.io <sarodude=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Just passing along an anecdote.

My wife & I were driving down the road in our comically problematic Dodge Ram.

She asked, "You smell that?"

Back & forth, it's us, it's not us.  I pull over, pop the hood, can't see anything.  Downwind of the fan, I can smell the smell.  Upwind of the fan I cannot.  Shoulder shrug.  We're sort of nowhere so we decide to keep going to our destination.

Every time we slow or stop, the smell really comes through the vents.  I'm starting to not feel too great.

We get where we're going.  Smell is pretty bad.  I pop the hood and still don't notice anything.  Shut the engine (hence the fan).  The main battery shows its hand.  It's is emitting some sort of smoke or vapor.  Because I trust American cars as much as I trust, eh...  Ok, there's nothing I trust as little as an American car.  Point is that I've got tools for tools in the back and immediately pull the battery.  Got lucky as it was just starting to emit some liquids.  Once pulled off the electrical system frantically trying to charge it, it calmed down and died a peaceful death.

If only our dead relatives could be turned in for a $22 core charge...  Too morbid?  BTW, how have battery prices doubled, yet core charges shrunk??

All of this is just to serve as a reminder that even your good old lead acid battery can ruin your day, be it a Dodge, a Honda (my weapon of choice), or <ObligatoryCanardContent> a Rutan Canard </ObligatoryCanardContent>.  I wish I could describe the smell.  Not quite tar.  Not quite rubber.  Not quite brake or clutch.  Definitely something you'd like to avoid breathing.

Curious how many people have battery mounts / housings that vent to the outside...

-Saro





--


Re: Landfill harmonic balancer

Todd Carrico
 

6 months ago, vincefrazier@... said they were working on making new ones.  He said they would probably sell them here:


I don't see them listed, so I sent him an email.

tc

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 2:09 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
--


Landfill harmonic balancer

Bill Allen
 

Hi All,

I’m looking for a Landoll harmonic balancer - has anyone got one or know of one for sale?

Bill Allen
CZ4 G-BYLZ
LE160 N99BA
--


Re: Battering Batteries

Phillip Johnson
 

Check your alternator. I had a similar problem and it was caused by a bad alternator regulator over charging the battery.

Phillip Johnson

On Sep 20, 2021, at 1:49 PM, Saro Marcarian via groups.io <sarodude@...> wrote:

Just passing along an anecdote.

My wife & I were driving down the road in our comically problematic Dodge Ram.

She asked, "You smell that?"

Back & forth, it's us, it's not us. I pull over, pop the hood, can't see anything. Downwind of the fan, I can smell the smell. Upwind of the fan I cannot. Shoulder shrug. We're sort of nowhere so we decide to keep going to our destination.

Every time we slow or stop, the smell really comes through the vents. I'm starting to not feel too great.

We get where we're going. Smell is pretty bad. I pop the hood and still don't notice anything. Shut the engine (hence the fan). The main battery shows its hand. It's is emitting some sort of smoke or vapor. Because I trust American cars as much as I trust, eh... Ok, there's nothing I trust as little as an American car. Point is that I've got tools for tools in the back and immediately pull the battery. Got lucky as it was just starting to emit some liquids. Once pulled off the electrical system frantically trying to charge it, it calmed down and died a peaceful death.

If only our dead relatives could be turned in for a $22 core charge... Too morbid? BTW, how have battery prices doubled, yet core charges shrunk??

All of this is just to serve as a reminder that even your good old lead acid battery can ruin your day, be it a Dodge, a Honda (my weapon of choice), or <ObligatoryCanardContent> a Rutan Canard </ObligatoryCanardContent>. I wish I could describe the smell. Not quite tar. Not quite rubber. Not quite brake or clutch. Definitely something you'd like to avoid breathing.

Curious how many people have battery mounts / housings that vent to the outside...

-Saro





Battering Batteries

Saro Marcarian
 

Just passing along an anecdote.

My wife & I were driving down the road in our comically problematic Dodge Ram.

She asked, "You smell that?"

Back & forth, it's us, it's not us.  I pull over, pop the hood, can't see anything.  Downwind of the fan, I can smell the smell.  Upwind of the fan I cannot.  Shoulder shrug.  We're sort of nowhere so we decide to keep going to our destination.

Every time we slow or stop, the smell really comes through the vents.  I'm starting to not feel too great.

We get where we're going.  Smell is pretty bad.  I pop the hood and still don't notice anything.  Shut the engine (hence the fan).  The main battery shows its hand.  It's is emitting some sort of smoke or vapor.  Because I trust American cars as much as I trust, eh...  Ok, there's nothing I trust as little as an American car.  Point is that I've got tools for tools in the back and immediately pull the battery.  Got lucky as it was just starting to emit some liquids.  Once pulled off the electrical system frantically trying to charge it, it calmed down and died a peaceful death.

If only our dead relatives could be turned in for a $22 core charge...  Too morbid?  BTW, how have battery prices doubled, yet core charges shrunk??

All of this is just to serve as a reminder that even your good old lead acid battery can ruin your day, be it a Dodge, a Honda (my weapon of choice), or <ObligatoryCanardContent> a Rutan Canard </ObligatoryCanardContent>.  I wish I could describe the smell.  Not quite tar.  Not quite rubber.  Not quite brake or clutch.  Definitely something you'd like to avoid breathing.

Curious how many people have battery mounts / housings that vent to the outside...

-Saro


High CHT's and CHT evaluation

Marc J. Zeitlin
 

Folks:

Mike Busch has a good article in the October 2021 issue of AOPA Pilot magazine regarding high CHT's. Mike always knows what he's talking about and has a good explanation of what "high" means in both Continentals and Lycomings, what good target CHT's are, and when (if ever) to get anxious about the CHT's you're seeing. He also discusses the three different reasons that CHT's may be running high.

Highly recommended.

--
Marc J. Zeitlin                      marc_zeitlin@...
                                            http://www.cozybuilders.org/
Copyright © 2021                     Burnside Aerospace


Re: Accessory Tubes

Keith Spreuer
 

Ok found the leak while running the engine. It was not that port. It was a cover I put over the prop gov pad. That port seems to be a second vent port. so left it as is. Will wait for gasket seal to cure and run again.
Thanks All

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021, 12:02 PM Keith Spreuer via groups.io <kspreuer=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is a photo of the port I'm talking about
Keith
On Sun, Sep 19, 2021, 11:41 AM Tim Andres <tim2542@...> wrote:


Keith, like Jay I cant think of any unthreaded port back there. The oil temp port has machine threads, the tach drive has male machine threads, all else is NPT. 
The temp port takes a AN crush washer, the tach drive should have a seal around the shaft and/or have a cap on it.  
And as Matt mentioned and Im sure you know, oil can appear in strange locations far from the actual leak.
Do you have a Casper labs or B&C filter adapter on it?
Tim Andres


On Sep 19, 2021, at 10:06 AM, Keith Spreuer <kspreuer@...> wrote:


I have a new and significant oil leak. I haven't confirmed yet but think it is coming from a port on the accessory case just left(airplane left) of the oil filter adapter. I attempted to plug this port with a plastic cap and suspect that cracked. This port has no threads and I have no idea what it is for. Question what is it for? Should it be plugged? How? If you don't  know from this description I send photos later


Re: Accessory Tubes

Keith Spreuer
 

Here is a photo of the port I'm talking about
Keith

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021, 11:41 AM Tim Andres <tim2542@...> wrote:


Keith, like Jay I cant think of any unthreaded port back there. The oil temp port has machine threads, the tach drive has male machine threads, all else is NPT. 
The temp port takes a AN crush washer, the tach drive should have a seal around the shaft and/or have a cap on it.  
And as Matt mentioned and Im sure you know, oil can appear in strange locations far from the actual leak.
Do you have a Casper labs or B&C filter adapter on it?
Tim Andres


On Sep 19, 2021, at 10:06 AM, Keith Spreuer <kspreuer@...> wrote:


I have a new and significant oil leak. I haven't confirmed yet but think it is coming from a port on the accessory case just left(airplane left) of the oil filter adapter. I attempted to plug this port with a plastic cap and suspect that cracked. This port has no threads and I have no idea what it is for. Question what is it for? Should it be plugged? How? If you don't  know from this description I send photos later


Re: Accessory Tubes

Tim Andres
 



Keith, like Jay I cant think of any unthreaded port back there. The oil temp port has machine threads, the tach drive has male machine threads, all else is NPT. 
The temp port takes a AN crush washer, the tach drive should have a seal around the shaft and/or have a cap on it.  
And as Matt mentioned and Im sure you know, oil can appear in strange locations far from the actual leak.
Do you have a Casper labs or B&C filter adapter on it?
Tim Andres


On Sep 19, 2021, at 10:06 AM, Keith Spreuer <kspreuer@...> wrote:


I have a new and significant oil leak. I haven't confirmed yet but think it is coming from a port on the accessory case just left(airplane left) of the oil filter adapter. I attempted to plug this port with a plastic cap and suspect that cracked. This port has no threads and I have no idea what it is for. Question what is it for? Should it be plugged? How? If you don't  know from this description I send photos later


Re: Accessory Tubes

skovbjerg
 

Can you sneak your phone in there and get a pic for us ?
I do not know of any open and un-treaded holes anywhere on the engine
Jay

On Sep 19, 2021, at 09:07, Keith Spreuer <kspreuer@...> wrote:


I have a new and significant oil leak. I haven't confirmed yet but think it is coming from a port on the accessory case just left(airplane left) of the oil filter adapter. I attempted to plug this port with a plastic cap and suspect that cracked. This port has no threads and I have no idea what it is for. Question what is it for? Should it be plugged? How? If you don't  know from this description I send photos later


Accessory Tubes

Keith Spreuer
 

I have a new and significant oil leak. I haven't confirmed yet but think it is coming from a port on the accessory case just left(airplane left) of the oil filter adapter. I attempted to plug this port with a plastic cap and suspect that cracked. This port has no threads and I have no idea what it is for. Question what is it for? Should it be plugged? How? If you don't  know from this description I send photos later

581 - 600 of 110538