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Re: Test
Greg Bakker <gregbakker@...>
Yeah, it’s a little quiet....(crickets)....
From: canard-aviators@... [mailto:canard-aviators@...] On Behalf Of Mike Tooze miketooze@... [canard-aviators]
Sent: Saturday, 21 May 2016 6:07 PM To: canard aviators Subject: [c-a] Test
Test
Rxd nothing since Wednesday
MT
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 13523 (20160520) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com
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Test
Mike Tooze
Test Rxd nothing since Wednesday MT
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Re: Oshkosh COZY Forum
Saro Marcarian
> Once again, it's time to solicit ideas for COZY Forum topics at OSH. Howzabout Instrument Panels? New builds and retrofits... I think an interesting presentation (plus maybe a set of plans / instructions for some coin?) could be why & how to go with aluminum (or at least something replaceable regardless of material) from the get-go. It's almost like we're ok permanently bonding an engine to the airframe. OR.... You keep talking about maintainability in general. Is there some set of stuff you can discuss that folks can do during a build that aids maintainability? How does someone know where it's ok to cut a hatch or drill structure? Are you giving up light, simple, & cheap? Etc. List of acceptable, light, cheap clamps. A one piece canard / nose cover & how-to? Main gear access from below? "Can we rename this thing the 'Heaven Hole'?" Eh, maybe not that last one. My personal favorite: how to turn staring at a pile of parts into a flying airplane. Still can't make it happen. -Saro
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VI Demo - Oshkosh
Tom Mann <tmann@...>
No .... the VI does not stand for Virgin Islands.
There was some additional information regarding the upcoming Vacuum
Infusion demo in Composites
World.
..... for those who may be interested.
T Mann
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Heat shielding for cowlings
There was a great article that talked about heat shielding in cowls on AVWeb. Thought this could be useful info for everyone:
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Oshkosh COZY Forum
Marc J. Zeitlin
Folks: Once again, it's time to solicit ideas for COZY Forum topics at OSH. Damon Meyer tentatively will be presenting his plan for an around the world record flight in his COZY III (he's already set a cross-country record from Ontario, CA to Portland, ME) which has an over 3K NM range. Since ACS is no longer paying for "official" COZY support, I'm happy to turn the "COZY" forum into a more general canard forum, with info about other types as well, if folks are interested. If you have ideas for presentation topics, or if you have a topic that YOU would like to volunteer present (and can put together a 10 - 20 minute presentation with slides), I'm all ears. If I get more offers than we have time, I will arbitrarily pick the topics to present out of a metaphorical hat I have here next to my office desk. No, I do not yet know which day or time the Forum will be on, but the smart money is on the standard time of early afternoon on Friday, July 29th. Same day as the assumed COZY dinner (which, I might suggest, could be turned into a more generic canard dinner, too). Fire away.
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2 or 4
Greg Norman
To all you nose battery guys. Cozy plans mention routing #4 wires from the battery on the firewall. Are you nose battery guys going with #2?
Greg Norman
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Re: Hidden Rudder Belhorn Compression Spring
Mark Spedding - VIC Australia - Cozy IV #1331 CH13 <spodman59@...>
Nice Job Andrew.
On Tuesday, 17 May 2016 22:44:54 UTC+10, Andrew Anunson wrote:
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Re: COZY: Belleville Washer Stacks
Marc J. Zeitlin
John Toelaer wrote:
Wow - that's saying something. On my plane, even after the prop loss that led to the investigation of bellevilles, I'd say the best modification I've made to my plane was the fuselage side windows :-). But certainly from a safety standpoint, the bellevilles are a clear win.
And if you use Craig or Gary's installations with their props, you no longer need to use my long and somewhat complex methodology or instructions - just do what Craig or Gary say for their props and you're good to go.
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Re: COZY: Belleville Washer Stacks
johntoelaer
I have been running the bellevilles according to Marc's spreadsheet for 2 years now and FWIW it is the best change I have made to the aircraft in 20 years of flying the Long. I used to use a special tork wrench on almost every flight and now it just sits in the toolbox. A visual gap check on preflight and I check tightness with the fingers just for my own confidence and it is ready to start. Thanks Marc! john N51975
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New ADSB installation guidelines
Bulent Aliev
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Re: COZY: Hidden Rudder Belhorn Compression Spring
Elwood Johnson
Great idea. EJ Johnson N36EJ Mid. Kansas
On May 17, 2016, at 7:47 AM, Bill Allen billallensworld@... [canard-aviators] <canard-aviators-noreply@...> wrote:
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Re: COZY: Hidden Rudder Belhorn Compression Spring
Bill Allen
What a great idea Andrew - Education and recreation !
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Bill Allen
On Tuesday, 17 May 2016, 'Andrew Anunson' via COZY Builders Mailing List <cozy_builders@...> wrote:
-- Bill Allen LongEz160 N99BA FD51 CZ4 G-BYLZ EGBJ
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Hidden Rudder Belhorn Compression Spring
Andrew Anunson
Wicks Aircraft stocks the compression spring that we use for the hidden rudder belhorn installation. Their part number is spring-1887, and they are around $6 each. The builder is required to bend some 0.050 diameter music wire and put together the spring assembly. I started out trying to bend the music using crude tools (pliers, needle nose, screw drivers), and the results were ugly. The music wire folds (weak spots) instead of having curves. I show the results in the first photo. I don't have a music wire bender, and my tubing bender won't give the tight radius required for these belhorn springs, so I started poking around my shop to see what else might work. I don't know why I have a small set of brass hinges in my shop.... but guess what! They work great as a music wire bender! Just drill a hole through both hinge halves, right next to one end of the hinge pin. Insert music wire through the hole, then rotate the hinge. Its smoothly bends the wire, up to a bend of around 200 degrees. The small hinges work to create bends that, while not perfect, are much better than when using the crude hand tools. No crude tools here, no-way! I posted a few small photos (yes, all less than the 100kb limit) to illustrate. Andrew Anunson Cozy MKIV #1273 Chapter 20 Pound, VA
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Re: Steel, Rust, Epoxy, Primer
Joel Ventura
I have no special expertise in this area, so what you are getting from me is third hand info for what it is worth. About 10 or 15 years ago I attended a forum at Oshkosh, given by someone who was well qualified to speak on the subject. I would have to dig through my old notes to get his name, but I was surprised by what he said, so I remember it well (though I can not remember where I parked my car this morning). He said that epoxying to bare steel or aluminum should never be considered to be a structural bond. Most bonding epoxies are pervious to water vapor, and water will eventually travel through the epoxy layer and cause corrosion at the metal surface, breaking down the bond between the metal surface and the epoxy. This may take months to decades depending on the details of the materials and the environment, but it will eventually happen. Most composite designers are aware of this problem, and therefore when a structural issue is involved, they will encapsulate the metal part as much as possible, so that even if the metal to epoxy bond is broken, the part can not go anywhere. If that can not be done, his recommendation was to stabilize the metal surface first, for example by a chromate conversion coating or with Alodine for aluminum, so that even if liquid water somehow forms at the epoxy-metal boundary, it can not do anything nasty. I assume the epoxy bonds to the aluminum vent lines in my LongEz fuel tanks are still intact after 34 years, because they do not leak around the lines when I pressurize or partially evacuate the tanks. However, I have seen VariEze wing fittings and other cases where that bond has been completely broken after a few years in service. The VariEze wing fittings is a special case because there the water had an open boundary between the metal and epoxy to attack, and a pocket could form to hold liquid water at that boundary. --Joel
On Sun, May 15, 2016 at 9:54 PM, Andrew Anunson macleodm3@... [canard-aviators] <canard-aviators-noreply@...> wrote:
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Re: Copper tube ground
Hi Greg,
If you are using Tefzel possibly, but I personally prefer to run high current feeders separately. Richard Thomson.
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Re: Copper tube ground
Dale Martin
Bob Nuckolls put that in an very old cop of the Aero-Electric' Connection. Said, "he wished he would have never printed that."
On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 9:51 AM, vance atkinson nostromo56@... [canard-aviators] <canard-aviators-noreply@...> wrote:
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Re: Copper tube ground
Vance Atkinson
I second that.. Not recommending such a load
carrying wire inside the copper or aluminum tube.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Vance Atkinson EAA Flt and Tech advisor. COZY N43CZ VEZ N3LV
On 5/16/2016 10:17 AM,
skyeyecorp@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
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Re: COZY: Wire sleeving / protection
Greg Norman
Waddya mean?
On Sat, May 14, 2016 at 5:52 PM, 'Marc J. Zeitlin' marc_zeitlin@... [canard-aviators] <canard-aviators-noreply@...> wrote:
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Re: COZY: Belleville Washer Stacks
Marc J. Zeitlin
Palmer Reising wrote: Do you see any problem with using an eight (8) Belleville washer stack on the 1/2 inch Propeller bolts on a Cozy III with an O-360... Problem? No. Completely unnecessary and heavy? Yes. Most people using bellevilles run either two or four. With 1/2" bolts, almost all use four. Eight, as they say, is right out. or would you suggest buying new bolts and using a four or six stack? New bolts and a stack of four. Catto Propellers didn't seem to have any objections since they sent 24 additional Belleville washers. They sent new washers because you apparently bought a new prop, and Craig is now sending bellevilles BY DEFAULT with every new prop, as he's seen the light and caught the religion :-). He doesn't know what you've already got on your airplane. Also, should I use a wide area washer against the crush plate with the stack. One wasn't there in the original installation (see photograph). I always put an AN970 washer against the crushplate to protect the AL crushplate from damage from the steel belleville washer edges. What would the proper configuration of all washers (thin, Belleville, medium and wide area) in each stack of eight be? If you were going to use a stack of eight, you'd stack them the same way you'd stack four, but four groups of two opposing, rather than two groups of two opposing. This way, the force stays the same. If you're not familiar with the installation of Bellevilles, I'd suggest reading the information provided by Craig with the prop (if he sent something, which I assume he did), or Gary Hertzler's instructions for using Bellevilles, or go straight to the source and read the instructions at: HOWEVER, my instructions are generic - for Hertzler or Catto props, USE THE MFG'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR BELLEVILLE INSTALLATION. I'm installing a new Catto Three-Bladed Propeller and the hub is around 92 millimeters thick. The original Three-Bladed Catto propeller's hub is around 116 millimeters thick. You will need shorter bolts - apparently, about an inch shorter. Get shorter bolts. However, if I also use the wide area washer against the crush plate as shown in the PDF document about how to keep a wooden propeller on an aircraft with less work, I could gain about two threads more before bottoming out. Thus, I would have around seven threads before bottoming out. Just get 1" shorter bolts and use four bellevilles/bolt.
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