Bill Allen: "just watched Mike Arnolds' excellent series of DVDs on YouTube" - so you saw the part about no performance loss for the AR5 after removing the prop-spinner and the comments on flat

I had a discussion years ago with a local composite sales dealer and racing boat designer. He told me to peel ply everything to help save weight. He also showed me a microscope view of the

T, you don't have to pull a corner-- just sharpie a big "X" or xs over thepeel ply. Keep the corner on till later A while back (many years there was a discussion about the sandblastingcausing

One thing, not mentioned so far, is that a peel-plyed surface on thewings, canard or fuselage is terrific in that to add filler little or nosanding is required for a good bond. this can save hours

Bulent Aliev wrote: This technique can be very useful in emulating vacuum bagging without the bagging - you can definitely remove a lot of excess epoxy and help keep air out. BUT, it's even better

Does anyone know the inlet area size for the Berkut armpit scoops? I have one of kind armpit scoops on my LEZ and suspect the inlet area may be undersized for my cooling needs for a high compression

Bulent Aliev wrote: The PP is only one of many factors that affect the weight of a part - foam density (in wings, a BIG factor), application technique, etc. There's no way to state that it was the PP

Bill Allen wrote: Generally, when vacuum bagging and molding parts (which is just about all that any of the companies fabricating composite aircraft do) you PP everything. Labor (in sanding huge areas

We second James's endorsement of the Battery Minder products. We have many battery operated and battery start things/machines/tools and all of them were on el-cheapo "maintainers" which eventually

Klaus recommends firing the top plugs with the EI (at least HIS EI) bottom plugs with the mag for reasons I can't remember. I haven't had a fouled plug in 20 years unless I was running two mags.

I have the opposite results, I have always found using peel ply gives a lighter weight part,with far less filling & sanding. But again as was said results will vary with builder technique. JackM Veze

I had a discussion with Burt about using peel ply back in the late 70's while working my first Vari. He was against it at that time for 2 reasons. 1, He had not tested it. 2. He thought that the peel

Michael, I'm taking the risk of attracting the wrath of many people here. I built my whole airplane without using a single square inch of PP. I did wet layups pouring the epoxy on and spreading it

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200483764_200483764 I’ve had exceptional performance with these chargers. Temperaturecompensated and designed specifically for AGM batteries.

J D out at Infinity advised me to use the peel plymethod and don’t remove it until you are ready to bond to it. I’ve been doingthat since day one. One thing I do is pull up a corner and mark

When balancing elevators and ailerons, The method I use is to assemble them with all the weights etc on the canard or wing without the controls attached and without the spool piece so they hang free

I run the opposite: I have the EI / auto plugs on the bottom and the Bendix mag / Aircraft plugs on the top. The thinking is that the EI sends a 70K volt spark and the Bendix, on a good day, sends a

Buly, Do you remember how much extra epoxy you used on the heavy wing? I am curious since 10 lbs represents around 3/4 of a gallon of MGS mixed with the correct ratio of hardner. If all of the 10 lbs

>Tom, I use the Odyssey they recommended for my particular battery. ______________________________________________________________ Same here. T Mann

Begs the question----how was the PP applied? Back a hundred years ago when we built a Classic Europa---one of the guys from Atlanta that was building at the same time as us ("Turbo" Tom Wyatt) built