After reading these posts, I'd be inclined to do a DIY cleaning. After initial cleaning, I'd get a fluid pump, and continuously pump the cleaning fluid through the filter. Maybe in both

Pacific Oil Cooler: 800-866-7335

Id advise against DIY cleaning of the oil cooler interior plumbing. You may loosen but not remove all of the contaminates which could then contaminate the lube oil going to the engine. I cant say

good idea Del. that stuff builds up and we don’t notice it but any insulation will defeat the cooling process. sounds like you got a winner. Tell us how it performs now. Glenn

Unlike any other canard I have seen my Cozy has two oil coolers on its IO-360 angle valve. With two large coolers under the cowl strake area my cooling is good on a long climb on a hot day, however

I ended up not replacing the outer races after a machinist friend declared them perfectly serviceable. What I did do was flip the block that holds the taper bearings up-side-down so the

Tim, The bearings are not in the best of shape with visible scoring on the outer race. I can only imagine what the inner race looks like. There was no pre-load on the bearings when I took it apart

Neil that looks similar to the one on my Cozy and it is a Thompson Saginaw. I spoke to them awhile back trying to get one for a friend with an EZ and they said they no longer make that model but I bet

Neil, I believe that Jack buys the Motors directly from Thomson-Saginaw or a distributor. They use that same motor for many of their actuators. Note: The last post I meant to type "gears" and not

Mine did the same thing on that slot. Jack didn't think it hurts anything. As suggested Id clean and grease it. Jack might tell you what type grease to use, my only concern is not all grease types

I would take it apart a bit more and replace the set-screw that is chewing up the gold-anodized part. The set-screws probably use Loctite so they will need to be heated to remove them. (see pic

I’ve pulled it apart and the bearings are on the rough side. I’m about to pick up new ones locally. Is the worm drive something I should be pulling apart and servicing while I’m here? Also the

Thanks Tim/Izzy, I’ll be pulling it apart over the next few days. I’ll let the group know what I find. Neil

Pull the lid off the motor, its EZ, and you can see the gears. I think you'll find the gears are fine and the clunking noise is below the motor in the part Jack makes. If so its probably a bad bearing

I spoke with Jack last week. He can’t get new motors right now from his usual distributor citing supply chain issues. Not that the information is helpful, but you might want to just focus on

Some time ago someone posted what the Wilhelmson nose lift motor/gearbox came from so as to get repair parts. My EZ-Noselift is making clunk noises like a tooth is missing off the gear. I’m about

Somewhere along the lines of computer changes, I’ve lost my Long-EZ weight and balance spreadsheet. Could someone post a good Excel Long-EZ W&B spreadsheet? Thanks Neil

Greg and all.... I don't see the metal "eyelets" that go in the IN and OUT flow holes... I have been including these for years now and the eyelets do two things. Stops the in/ out flow

Good. My kind of person. :-) Or at 50 ft altitude and 50 ft past end of runway. What I got from Marc's post is that EFII in the past sold SDS equipment. Perhaps they thought they could get along

David A Froble wrote: Always a good trait. Both SDS and EFII systems are very comparable in price for equivalent functionality units. Somewhere in the $6K - $7K, all in, for either, IIRC. You're