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I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
On Thursday, June 27, 2019 11:27:19 PM EDT, Glen bob gcm2291@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
On Jun 27, 2019, at 1:03 PM, Izzy Briggs inbriggs@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
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That’s what I used, and was very happy with the looks.
I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
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I used a paint mask for all my lettering and numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy to do.
Victor Taylor
On Jun 28, 2019, at 14:15, Andrew Anunson macleodm3@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
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All of the graphics on “Cat’s Meow” are vinyl and they have held up very well. When it comes time, I will use vinyl formthe graphics on the plane I am building.
Phil Kriley P.S. I also stink at painting...
On Jun 28, 2019, at 10:13 AM, victor taylor velocityoner@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy to do.
Victor Taylor Velocity 93DV
I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
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Who can afford th hire a paint company?
If you do your own painting, which I did,
there is a caution.
The original owners/builders had put
"Spraylat" on the canopy to protect it
from scratches. That is a good idea.
HOWEVER Spraylat soaks up paint.
I did not know that so I did not cover
the spraylat with masking tape. The
paint job looked GREAT.
Then I found that the canopy was also painted up a 1/2" to 3/4" all around.
I worked to get it off. It does not come
off. With aging and persistance I got
most off. I also have scratches.
The Longeze looks good when I fly
over at 500' or more.
So I now have a new canopy that I will
eventually put on.
Bruce Hughes
----- Original Message -----
From: victor taylor velocityoner@... [canard-aviators]
To: canard-aviators@...
Sent: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 10:13:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [c-a] Re: COZY: picking up from paint - what to look for?
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy to do.
Victor Taylor Velocity 93DV
I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "COZY Builders Mailing List" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to cozy_builders+unsubscribe@.... To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/cozy_builders/00ec01d52c81%240c0a90c0%24241fb240%24%40aetm.us.
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Where’s the like button? Oh, wrong platform, anyway, ask for the “paint mask” adhesive when doing it this way. Sticks just enough to seal the edge, peels off easy . Tim Andres
On Jun 28, 2019, at 10:13 AM, victor taylor velocityoner@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy to do.
Victor Taylor Velocity 93DV
I was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and graphics.... any recommendations for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks, Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the best rout for numbers.
GM
I had a similar problem painting the numbers on the Varieze. I initially used a single stage paint. The paint was thick and when it started to cure, it pulled a sloppy swoopy mess along the edges of the Nnumbers.
I waited a day then sanded everything back to primer and started over. This time I left the tape on until the paint dried. This time the paint came off in chips and left with a sharp jagged line.
So I sanded off a third time and changed paints.. This time I used single stage white to paint the base. Then I used basecoat to paint the numbers (brown and orange). After painting the basecoat, the template came off easily and left nice clean lines. I then lightly sanded and used a clear coat over the whole winglet not just the number. So far it’s working.
The. I went to the Bahamas in April. CBP didn’t like my numbers at all. So I used orange tape and made new ones!
It sounds as a common sense thing, but my hangar mate years back, took his plane to a professional plane painting outfit. Had it done and after drying for few days he brought his CZ back. I could not believe what I was seeing. The fine line and masking tape around the windshield and the windows was still on. I told him it is a big problem and it is going to hurt. He did not think so, until tried to pull the tape. Paint was lifting in a ugly jagged line. The painter should have pulled the tape off soon after finishing with the spray gun. Just something to consider.
You should have used a blue paint gun.
I recently painted my LongEZ , the third one I've painted and it's a really big deal. The actual spraying takes less than 8 hours, the prep hundreds. I wouldn't do it for less than 20 K. The only way to do it right (my opinion) is to disassemble everything. I counted 46 separate parts to paint.
How did the guy balance the controls exactly?
How much weight was added to the plane? Did you get a before and after weight?
How long should the paint cure before it can return to service? Some paints need to sit for a week or so before it can handle a bugs face at 200.
Make sure there’s no leftover paper or tape anywhere, especially the engine area and the brakes. Bring a flashlight.
Make sure all doors and panels can be opened or removed that they weren’t painted shut.
Drips can be mitigated by some skilled use of a razor blade and rubbing compound without too much difficulty so don’t sweat them too much. On Jun 26, 2019, at 20:41, Christian Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote: On the recommendations from a few folks on this list, I just had my Berkut painted at Kracon in Lincoln, CA. They completed the job only a couple of days past the two weeks promised, which seems incredible. So I'm going tomorrow to pick her up. I will do a careful inspection of the job, looking for runs and overspray. On my safety list is a thorough preflight, particularly including canard attachment bolts and wires, and full travel of all controls (I brought a protractor to check the travel). They had an A&P balance the controls and make a logbook entry. Tapping the collective braintrust here – anything else you’ve seen or heard of a paint shop mess up that I should look out for? Christian Berkut 540 N6212
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Have to stick in my two cents again.
I did my graphics in Cadd (Visual Cadd) where I could do them "full
size". I printed them at home on paper and fitted them to the plane
to be sure I liked the look on the plane then took them to a local
sign shop where they printed the vinyl for me matching the colors
and size perfectly. Loved the job, and was able to do some pretty
fine lines (note the yellow lines that taper to nothing between the
darker colored ones). They were able to use the CADD files directly
from a USB drive I suppled.
The best part of doing it this way was they could easily print the
long fuselage graphics in one piece!
Here's a jpg copy of the cadd screen for the winglet design, and.
second, a photo of the winglet with the paper copies that I printed
to check for fit and appearance, and last, the finished vinyl job. I
decided to change the N number's location when I applied them so it
wouldn't be on the rudder and still be fairly large.
I didn't notice it looked like Terry's until I went to RR two years
ago! It wasn't intentional...we must just think alike!
Harley
On 6/28/2019 10:25 AM, Phil Kriley
greilich@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
All of the graphics on “Cat’s Meow” are vinyl
and they have held up very well.. When it comes time, I
will use vinyl formthe graphics on the plane I am
building.
Phil Kriley
P.S. I also stink at painting...
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and
numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it
on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then
pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy
to do.
Victor Taylor
Velocity 93DV
Sent from my
iPhone
I was planning to use vinyl for my
numbers and graphics.... any recommendations
for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the
best rout for numbers.
GM
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I used truck decals for the sides. For the numbers, I took measurements of the available space on The winglets, took a close photo of the winglet and took it to a sign guy. He made the numbers on the computer, and superimposed the to my photo. Than he moved and stretched the to my liking. Than cut me two perfect sets. Later years when I had to replace one wing, he pulled the old file and cut me an exact copy. I did the installation myself.
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 1:11 PM Harley Dixon harley@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
Have to stick in my two cents again.
I did my graphics in Cadd (Visual Cadd) where I could do them "full
size". I printed them at home on paper and fitted them to the plane
to be sure I liked the look on the plane then took them to a local
sign shop where they printed the vinyl for me matching the colors
and size perfectly. Loved the job, and was able to do some pretty
fine lines (note the yellow lines that taper to nothing between the
darker colored ones). They were able to use the CADD files directly
from a USB drive I suppled.
The best part of doing it this way was they could easily print the
long fuselage graphics in one piece!
Here's a jpg copy of the cadd screen for the winglet design, and.
second, a photo of the winglet with the paper copies that I printed
to check for fit and appearance, and last, the finished vinyl job. I
decided to change the N number's location when I applied them so it
wouldn't be on the rudder and still be fairly large.
I didn't notice it looked like Terry's until I went to RR two years
ago! It wasn't intentional...we must just think alike!
Harley
On 6/28/2019 10:25 AM, Phil Kriley
greilich@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
All of the graphics on “Cat’s Meow” are vinyl
and they have held up very well.. When it comes time, I
will use vinyl formthe graphics on the plane I am
building.
Phil Kriley
P.S. I also stink at painting...
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and
numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it
on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then
pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy
to do.
Victor Taylor
Velocity 93DV
Sent from my
iPhone
I was planning to use vinyl for my
numbers and graphics.... any recommendations
for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the
best rout for numbers.
GM
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|
Looks like auto spell butchered my last email😱
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 1:11 PM Harley Dixon harley@... [canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...> wrote:
Have to stick in my two cents again.
I did my graphics in Cadd (Visual Cadd) where I could do them "full
size". I printed them at home on paper and fitted them to the plane
to be sure I liked the look on the plane then took them to a local
sign shop where they printed the vinyl for me matching the colors
and size perfectly. Loved the job, and was able to do some pretty
fine lines (note the yellow lines that taper to nothing between the
darker colored ones). They were able to use the CADD files directly
from a USB drive I suppled.
The best part of doing it this way was they could easily print the
long fuselage graphics in one piece!
Here's a jpg copy of the cadd screen for the winglet design, and.
second, a photo of the winglet with the paper copies that I printed
to check for fit and appearance, and last, the finished vinyl job. I
decided to change the N number's location when I applied them so it
wouldn't be on the rudder and still be fairly large.
I didn't notice it looked like Terry's until I went to RR two years
ago! It wasn't intentional...we must just think alike!
Harley
On 6/28/2019 10:25 AM, Phil Kriley
greilich@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
All of the graphics on “Cat’s Meow” are vinyl
and they have held up very well.. When it comes time, I
will use vinyl formthe graphics on the plane I am
building.
Phil Kriley
P.S. I also stink at painting...
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and
numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it
on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then
pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy
to do.
Victor Taylor
Velocity 93DV
Sent from my
iPhone
I was planning to use vinyl for my
numbers and graphics.... any recommendations
for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the
best rout for numbers.
GM
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KEN4ZZ
The simple solution:?? Vinyl boat numbers.?? I generally get 8 to
10 years before I lose one.?? Some have been stuck on for over 25
years.?? I prefer the simple black block numbers available locally,
but more colors and styles are available.?? Just one source of
many: https://www.westmarine.com/boat-letters-numbers
Ken
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
??
That???s what I used, and was very happy
with the looks.??
??
I
was planning to use vinyl for my numbers and
graphics.... any recommendations for or
against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew
Anunson
On ???Thursday???, ???June??? ???27???, ???2019???
???11???:???27???:???19??? ???PM??? ???EDT, Glen bob gcm2291@...
[canard-aviators] < canard-aviators@...>
wrote:
Seems like vinyl would be the
best rout for numbers.
GM
??
I had a similar problem
painting the numbers on the
Varieze. I initially used a
single stage paint. The
paint was thick and when it
started to cure, it pulled a
sloppy swoopy mess along the
edges of the Nnumbers.??
I waited a day then
sanded everything ??back to
primer and started over.
This time I left the tape on
until the paint dried. This
time the paint came off in
chips and left with a sharp
jagged line.
So I sanded off a third
time and changed paints..
This time I used single
stage white to paint the
base. Then I used basecoat
to paint the numbers (brown
and orange). After painting
the basecoat, the ??template
came off easily and left
nice clean lines. I then
lightly sanded and used a
clear coat over the whole
winglet not just the number.
So far it???s working.
The. I went to the
Bahamas in April. CBP didn???t
like my numbers at all. So I
used orange tape and made
new ones!??
??
It sounds as a
common sense
thing, but my
hangar mate years
back, took his
plane to a
professional plane
painting outfit.
Had it done and
after drying for
few days he
brought his CZ
back. I could not
believe what I was
seeing. The fine
line and masking
tape around the
windshield and the
windows was still
on.??
I told him it is
a big problem and it
is going to hurt. He
did not think so,
until tried to pull
the tape. Paint was
lifting in a ugly
jagged line.??
The painter
should have pulled
the tape off soon
after finishing with
the spray gun.
Just something to
consider.
??
You should
have used a
blue paint
gun.??
??
I
recently
painted my
LongEZ , the
third one I've
painted and
it's a really
big deal. The
actual
spraying takes
less than 8
hours, the
prep hundreds.
I wouldn't do
it for less
than 20 K. The
only way to do
it right (my
opinion) is to
disassemble
everything. I
counted 46
separate parts
to paint.??
??
How did the
guy balance
the controls
exactly?
How much
weight was
added to the
plane? Did you
get a before
and after
weight?
How long
should the
paint cure
before it can
return to
service? Some
paints need to
sit for a week
or so before
it can handle
a bugs face at
200.
Make sure
there???s no
leftover paper
or tape
anywhere,
especially the
engine area
and the
brakes. Bring
a flashlight.??
Make sure
all doors and
panels can be
opened or
removed that
they weren???t
painted shut.??
Drips can
be mitigated
by some
skilled use of
a razor blade
and rubbing
compound
without too
much
difficulty so
don???t sweat
them too
much.??
On Jun 26,
2019, at
20:41,
Christian
Bailey < aetm12@...> wrote:
On
the
recommendations
from a few
folks on this
list, I just
had my Berkut
painted at
Kracon in
Lincoln, CA.
??
They
completed the
job only a
couple of days
past the two
weeks
promised,
which seems
incredible. So
I'm going
tomorrow to
pick her up.
??
I
will do a
careful
inspection of
the job,
looking for
runs and
overspray.
??
On
my safety list
is a thorough
preflight,
particularly
including
canard
attachment
bolts and
wires, and
full travel of
all controls
(I brought a
protractor to
check the
travel). They
had an A&P
balance the
controls and
make a logbook
entry.
??
Tapping
the collective
braintrust
here ???
anything else
you???ve seen or
heard of a
paint shop
mess up that I
should look
out for?
??
Christian
Berkut
540 N6212
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Harley,
the diagonal numbers make such a big difference for the better. Somehow, makes the effect more modern. Interesting how significant graphics design can be.
--Jose
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, at 1:10 PM, Harley Dixon harley@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
Have to stick in my two cents again.
I did my graphics in Cadd (Visual Cadd) where I could do them "full
size". I printed them at home on paper and fitted them to the plane
to be sure I liked the look on the plane then took them to a local
sign shop where they printed the vinyl for me matching the colors
and size perfectly. Loved the job, and was able to do some pretty
fine lines (note the yellow lines that taper to nothing between the
darker colored ones). They were able to use the CADD files directly
from a USB drive I suppled.
The best part of doing it this way was they could easily print the
long fuselage graphics in one piece!
Here's a jpg copy of the cadd screen for the winglet design, and.
second, a photo of the winglet with the paper copies that I printed
to check for fit and appearance, and last, the finished vinyl job. I
decided to change the N number's location when I applied them so it
wouldn't be on the rudder and still be fairly large.
I didn't notice it looked like Terry's until I went to RR two years
ago! It wasn't intentional...we must just think alike!
Harley
On 6/28/2019 10:25 AM, Phil Kriley greilich@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
All of the graphics on “Cat’s Meow” are vinyl
and they have held up very well.. When it comes time, I
will use vinyl formthe graphics on the plane I am
building.
Phil Kriley
P.S. I also stink at painting...
I used a paint mask for all my lettering and
numbers. The local sign shop made mine. You put it
on and peel off the top layer. Sand and paint, then
pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is very easy
to do.
Victor Taylor
Velocity 93DV
Sent from my
iPhone
I was planning to use vinyl for my
numbers and graphics.... any recommendations
for or against vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew Anunson
Seems like vinyl would be the
best rout for numbers.
GM
Attachments:
- kkjnmebdddceobol.png
- ajjmalldkfcddbja.png
- pbaecjpilebjchph.png
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Thanks, Jose...
Although, when my DAR (Daryl Middlebrook, owner of Penn Yan Aero...
www.pennyanaero.com ) inspected it for the airworthiness
certificate, he reminded me that if the aircraft was any newer I
couldn't have done them like that! He said that since I started
building it in the 80s, it grandfathered for the weirder than normal
numbering.
Don't know how true that is, but I thank him for it!
Harley
Harley,
the diagonal numbers make
such a big difference for the better. Somehow, makes the
effect more modern. Interesting how significant graphics
design can be.
--Jose
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, at 1:10 PM, Harley Dixon
harley@... [canard-aviators] wrote:
Have to stick in my
two cents again.
I did my graphics
in Cadd (Visual Cadd) where I could do them "full
size". I printed them at home on paper and fitted
them to the plane to be sure I liked the look on
the plane then took them to a local sign shop
where they printed the vinyl for me matching the
colors and size perfectly. Loved the job, and was
able to do some pretty fine lines (note the yellow
lines that taper to nothing between the darker
colored ones). They were able to use the CADD
files directly from a USB drive I suppled.
The best part of
doing it this way was they could easily print the
long fuselage graphics in one piece!
Here's a jpg copy
of the cadd screen for the winglet design, and..
second, a photo of the winglet with the paper
copies that I printed to check for fit and
appearance, and last, the finished vinyl job. I
decided to change the N number's location when I
applied them so it wouldn't be on the rudder and
still be fairly large.
I didn't notice it
looked like Terry's until I went to RR two years
ago! It wasn't intentional...we must just think
alike!
Harley
On 6/28/2019 10:25
AM, Phil Kriley greilich@...
[canard-aviators] wrote:
All of the graphics on “Cat’s
Meow” are vinyl and they have held up very
well.. When it comes time, I will use vinyl
formthe graphics on the plane I am building.
Phil Kriley
P.S. I also stink at painting...
I used a paint mask for all my
lettering and numbers. The local sign
shop made mine. You put it on and peel
off the top layer. Sand and paint, then
pull off the rest. Worked perfect and is
very easy to do.
Victor Taylor
Velocity
93DV
Sent from
my iPhone
I
was planning to use vinyl for my
numbers and graphics.... any
recommendations for or against
vinyl numbers / graphics?
Thanks,
Andrew
Anunson
Seems like vinyl
would be the best rout
for numbers.
GM
Attachments:
- kkjnmebdddceobol.png
- ajjmalldkfcddbja.png
- pbaecjpilebjchph.png
|
|
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