Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine

Bob Holliston

Afif, Mark's right. Rebuilt engines ALWAYS run hotter till the rings break in. This sometimes creates a dilemma. You need to run the engine at at least 75% power to break in the rings properly which creates more heat than running at, say, 60% power. Most updraft cooled EZ's, at least the ones that I've seen, have ramps in the lower cowl to force the air up through the two forward cylinders. The rear cylinders normally run cooler because the rear bulkhead/baffle forces the air up through them. One thing I've seen that works well is to cut holes in the top cowling, say, 1 1/2" X 5" above the hot cylinder(s). They suck the air right up through there. Maybe cut the holes then repair after the engine breaks in? It works but introduces lots of dirty air in front of the prop. Seems like Gary Hertzler did a drawing on how to do the holes with a way to keep some or most of the air attached to the cowling. I remember seeing one of those holes on Dave Ronneberg's Berkut. 

On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 7:45 PM Don B via Groups.Io <> wrote:
I’m running a160hp 0-320 and switched to armpit scoops for cooling.  

On Feb 23, 2020, at 4:50 PM, Afif Saybe <afif@...> wrote:

I recently factory overhauled my O320E2G Long EZ and upgraded from 150-160HP. I've done a couple fo flight and I've noticed higher engine temperatures (in the 420+ degF) than my previous configuration. I have a conventional updraft configuration in my LEZ and I'm wondering if its time to modify the cowls for additional cooling. I'm also planning of replacing the straight pipes too.... Attached are pictures of my LEZ with current cowlings....Would love to hear of experiences of LEZ with 160HP engine and temperatures range operation....Thanks in advance!

Afif Saybe




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