|
Re: iFly 720 for sale
Thomas W. Carey
The iFly has been sold!
From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Thomas W. Carey
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2020 11:44 AM To: members@canardzone.groups.io Subject: [Canard Zone] iFly 720 for sale
Posting for a friend. His email is attached, here. ----------------------------------------------------------------
I just removed my iFly 720 GPS from the aircraft. It was mounted in panel and used as a moving map & ADS-B IN display. Unit has about 100 hours on it and works great. It comes with AC charging cord, DC charging cord, Suction mount and remote control unit. I am asking 125.00 that includes shipping. If interested, contact me at the listed Email: UH1CW2@... Phil
Phillip Camarda
|
|
|
|
iFly 720 for sale
Thomas W. Carey
Posting for a friend. His email is attached, here. ----------------------------------------------------------------
I just removed my iFly 720 GPS from the aircraft. It was mounted in panel and used as a moving map & ADS-B IN display. Unit has about 100 hours on it and works great. It comes with AC charging cord, DC charging cord, Suction mount and remote control unit. I am asking 125.00 that includes shipping. If interested, contact me at the listed Email: UH1CW2@... Phil
Phillip Camarda
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine
Thanks Bob for the additional facts. Interesting. Will talk to Gary Hertzler about it for some insight of the cowling openings. I will focus mainly right now in trying to break in process and monitoring the CHT history in various flights….
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Regards, Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Thanks for the input Gary. Before the OH, I didn’t have the cooling problem, just the regular EZ overheating if too much time idling on the ramp. Carburator WAS replaced with an OH one.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I need to fly it a couple of more hours at sea level and at altitude to have a better scenario of the cooling/heating process. I will follow your test procedure and report. Thanks for your words of advice! Regards, Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
kent ashton
At takeoff the engine is making the most power and has to reject the most heat. If it was running too rich it would run cooler. If it was running very lean it would not put out takeoff power and might detonate. So it sounds like inadequate cooling to me. I had a new EZ that would not even get to pattern altitude without overheating. When I did the piccolo tube measurement, I only had 3.0"-3.5” of pressure difference across the cylinders. After revising the cowl exit I got 5.5” and it ran a bit too cool in cruise.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-Kent
On Feb 24, 2020, at 7:58 AM, Jim Evans <jevansez@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine
Bob Holliston
Afif, Mark's right. Rebuilt engines ALWAYS run hotter till the rings break in. This sometimes creates a dilemma. You need to run the engine at at least 75% power to break in the rings properly which creates more heat than running at, say, 60% power. Most updraft cooled EZ's, at least the ones that I've seen, have ramps in the lower cowl to force the air up through the two forward cylinders. The rear cylinders normally run cooler because the rear bulkhead/baffle forces the air up through them. One thing I've seen that works well is to cut holes in the top cowling, say, 1 1/2" X 5" above the hot cylinder(s). They suck the air right up through there. Maybe cut the holes then repair after the engine breaks in? It works but introduces lots of dirty air in front of the prop. Seems like Gary Hertzler did a drawing on how to do the holes with a way to keep some or most of the air attached to the cowling. I remember seeing one of those holes on Dave Ronneberg's Berkut.
On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 7:45 PM Don B via Groups.Io <donberlin475=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
--
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
YOU ARE CORRECT. I should have mention the hours. Just approaching this conservatively.....First OH and not afraid to ask!!! Thanks for the clarification and will continue to "EXPERIMENT" with it.... Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Marc J. Zeitlin
Afif Saybe wrote: Thanks Mark,,, I will look into it methodically and report back on this issue. I do know I have my engine timed at 25deg BTDC, My engine only has 5 hours after OH. That would have been a useful thing to say up front :-). 5 hrs STOH is almost certainly the major cause of the increase in CHT's, with the timing possibly being a second cause. Like others have said, if it cooled before, it'll cool now - the extra 10 HP isn't causing a cooling issue.
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Thanks Mark,,, I will look into it methodically and report back on this issue. I do know I have my engine timed at 25deg BTDC, My engine only has 5 hours after OH.
Regards, Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Marc J. Zeitlin
Gary Hunter wrote:
Agreed.
I've seen 5 degrees of timing retardation lower CHT's by 10 - 20F. The first thing I'd do is check that the mags/EI's are timed to 20 Deg BTDC, rather than 25 Deg BTDC, but only if the cylinders AREN'T already broken in. I also agree that if the engine has new rings/cylinders, until they break in the temps could be 20 - 40F higher than they will be after they break in.
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Great....Thanks for sharing....!
Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
If the your engine cooled adequately before overhaul, and the only changes you have made was an increase in compression ratio to make it 160 hp, the problem is not the cowling.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Two additional things that could have changed during the factory overhaul that can effect CHT’s, is the timing and the carburetor. The timing of a 160 hp engine may be different from the 150 hp variant. Generally, an increase in the timing angle will increase CHTs. But, in my experience - that CHT increase is not very much. If the carburetor was sent to the factory with the engine, it too was likely overhauled and put back into spec for that engine. Or, it was replaced. Either way, if any modifications had been made to that carburetor before the overhaul, such as boring the main jet, there is a good chance it was removed. To ascertain if the carburetor or mixture is too lean, monitor your EGT during climb out at full rich. I emphasize you must do this during the climb, not during cruise, lean the mixture and see if the EGTs rise or decrease. If the EGT decreases immediately, or the EGT rise is minimal before it begins to decrease, your mixture is too lean. You need the -32 carburetor. Gary Vari-Eze N235GH Crew Chief for World Record Holding Pushy Galore and The Flyin’ Tiger.
On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:37 AM, Afif Saybe <afif@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine
Thanks for sharing the pictures.....
Regards, Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine
Don B
  On Feb 24, 2020, at 8:33 AM, Afif Saybe <afif@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Don B
Lew Miller and I both have done the mod on our 0-320 Longezs with Ellison TBIs. He had the same success with cooling. This what Mike Melvill came up with. I purchased the carbon fiber cowl from Featherlite for about $1600.00. Pictures below.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
   NACA INLET CONVERTED FOR TBI RAM AIR
On Feb 24, 2020, at 8:37 AM, Afif Saybe <afif@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Greg Norman
Hi Gary, Can you explain free flowing exhaust? Greg Norman
On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 11:11 PM Gary Hunter via Groups.Io <lucyliu22=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Could you share some pictures of your cowling configuration??? Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
I have the same scenario......Alarms immediately after take off and while on Climbing!!! Very Interesting..... Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engine
Hi Don....l do you have a picture of your armpit scoops???
Regards, Afif
|
|
|
|
Re: Cowling Mods for 160HP Engin
Jim,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
What you describe your engine is doing is exactly what I and others have witnessed. When I researched for info, I found that Lycoming specifies certain O-320 engine models for different aircraft. Going down the list, I found only one experimental aircraft - Lancair 320. That engine model was O320-A2B. Going to their Engine Model specifications list - this engine specifies what is called a -32 carb. I called Precision to find out what that carb is all about and they explained very precisely. It is a carburetor set up deliver more fuel across the entire airflow range. The Lancair 320 has a low back pressure exhaust system compare to certified aircraft with mufflers. As such it needs more fuel. It is NOT, just a larger jet size. It has a very specific nozzle, and the fuel flow regulator (the brass doohickey in the base of float bowl), is clocked at a different angle relative to the fuel/air mixture rod. These features are not something you or your repair shop can change on your existing carb. Many people have simply bored out the jet on their existing carbs and were able to get satisfactory results. But, according to Precision, the atomization will not be ideal. Often it leads to uneven EGTs. Sent from Gary's iPhone
On Feb 24, 2020, at 6:59 AM, Jim Evans <jevansez@...> wrote:
|
|
|