Date   

Improvements to the Mailing List

Jon Matcho
 

Hello everyone, 

We recently had a spammer sneak through the approval process, post 1 on-topic message (barely), and then followed with another trying to sell face masks. The person has since been banned and the posts removed from the archives.

I have made some adjustments to improve vetting new membership requests so that such nonsense is kept out of the discussion.

Thank you all,
Jon


New carbon fiber nfo

Webcave
 

While the high cost of production has proven a limitation to the widespread adoption of carbon fiber, scientists have found that a small amount of graphene could not only make it more affordable, but possibly stronger and stiffer at the same time.   Read more
 







JackM
Veze


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Terry Schubert
 

Hi Bob,
 
Thanks for the pic!
 
Is it OK if I put your text & pic together and send it to Mike Beasley, the new CSA guy?
 
Of course I'll put your name to it. 
 
 
Terry 

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Bob Holliston" <bob.holliston@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 16:19:58 -0700

Here's the pic. of the speed brake gas strut replacement for those horrible springs. I did this at least 10 years ago and it still works fine. I hadn't looked at it in all that time and had forgotten how simple it was to do using all the existing hardware. Don't ask me details about the strut - I can't remember. 

 

On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 4:05 AM Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Thanks for the tip for an alternate spring breaking reason.
 
I get Century springs from Ace Hardware and haven't run into that.
 
Terry Schubert

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Steve" <josteve100@...>
To: "members@canardzone.groups.io" <members@canardzone.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:38:55 -0400

The spring in the pictures look like screen door return springs that are easy to get at Home Depot or Lowes.  I got one from Lowe’s last month that I was going to stretch out and wrap around the exhaust under the carb heat muff.  It broke in three places as I stretched the spring.  I then purchased one from Home Depot that was a different brand.  I was able to stretch the new one without breaking.  I don’t have the packaging anymore but it’s clear that some brands are making very brittle springs.  
 
Steve Sorenson

On Thursday, May 14, 2020, Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700

 

 

 

 



--

Attachments:


Re: LED lights

Tony Rothwell
 

Jim,

The 50 W Halogen bulbs in my winglets are what they call dichroic; the light goes out the front - the heat goes out the back;  and they DO get very hot.
They are in a sealed compartment simply carved out of the lower winglet foam , a lightweight Al bracket and a bit of heat moulded acrylic as a cover.
Behind the bulb and to protect the blue foam from heat, I have a tiny square of fiberfrax.  No heat damage in many years of use (including hot daytime use as wig wag lights).
LED lights run much, much cooler and as I mentioned earlier, well designed ones come with internal heat management, to protect the LED electronics not anything external.

Tony


On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 09:24, Jim Evans <jevansez@...> wrote:
It seems like y'all are finally getting around to addressing my original question. It appears in order to get to the required brightness needed for landing light, will have to deal with unwanted heat which makes using them anywhere near wing foam such as winglets a significant challenge. Which goes back to my original question, how do you deal with the heat?

Jim

On Fri, May 15, 2020, 19:02 Tony Rothwell <tony13rothwell@...> wrote:
Del,
I agree that power consumption comparisons are interesting for LED lights but the missing link is the rapidly improving amount of light output per electrical watt consumed.
Consider how much light some of the so called headband head-light LED things put out - and the lights on push bikes.
That said, I am not sure how much reliance to place on some of the quoted Lumens figures - some LED's with relatively low numbers seem a lot brighter than those with higher claimed outputs.
     Perhaps a manufacturer honesty measure?
I would like to replace my halogen wing tip lights with push bike LED's but the clever internal switching arrangements have made that not such a simple task.
There is another clever wrinkle to these high power LED's too - the manufacturers build in heat protection circuits which actually switch the LED on and off to keep heat within limits.
Because of the persistence of the eye we do not notice this happening but it does and it introduces RF energy to the wiring.
But when it is all added up, LED's are getting better every day and are the way to go.

On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 08:35, Del Schier <cozypilot@...> wrote:

Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  

 

The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.

 

The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.

 

Del Schier

Cozy IV N197DL

Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL

 

 

 

From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

 

Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.

 

Greg Norman

 

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Tom, 

 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?

 

$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...

 

 

 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

 

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

 

Ion



 

Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com

 

 

Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN

 


Re: LED lights

Tom Smith
 

Well, what are your requirements?? You can get great lights at (https://www.whelen.com/aviation/category?head_id=13) but the price is high.
About the RF noise I found a remedy for that, (https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pcs-Ferrite-Core-Cord-Ring-RFI-EMI-Noise-Filter-Cable-Clip-for-3-5mm-5mm-7/113438674028?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648) This took all my RF noise in the radio and made it go away. Gust wrapped the wire around the Ferite core ring and snap it closed. I wrapped it 3 times.
20-Pcs-Ferrite-Core-Cord-Ring-RFI-EMI-Noise-Filter-Cable-Clip-for-3-5mm-5mm-7


Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Evans <jevansez@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Sent: Fri, May 15, 2020 4:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

It seems like y'all are finally getting around to addressing my original question. It appears in order to get to the required brightness needed for landing light, will have to deal with unwanted heat which makes using them anywhere near wing foam such as winglets a significant challenge. Which goes back to my original question, how do you deal with the heat?

Jim

On Fri, May 15, 2020, 19:02 Tony Rothwell <tony13rothwell@...> wrote:
Del,
I agree that power consumption comparisons are interesting for LED lights but the missing link is the rapidly improving amount of light output per electrical watt consumed.
Consider how much light some of the so called headband head-light LED things put out - and the lights on push bikes.
That said, I am not sure how much reliance to place on some of the quoted Lumens figures - some LED's with relatively low numbers seem a lot brighter than those with higher claimed outputs.
     Perhaps a manufacturer honesty measure?
I would like to replace my halogen wing tip lights with push bike LED's but the clever internal switching arrangements have made that not such a simple task.
There is another clever wrinkle to these high power LED's too - the manufacturers build in heat protection circuits which actually switch the LED on and off to keep heat within limits.
Because of the persistence of the eye we do not notice this happening but it does and it introduces RF energy to the wiring.
But when it is all added up, LED's are getting better every day and are the way to go.

On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 08:35, Del Schier <cozypilot@...> wrote:
Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  
 
The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.
 
The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.
 
Del Schier
Cozy IV N197DL
Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL
 
 
 
From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights
 
Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.
 
Greg Norman
 
On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Tom, 
 
 
$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...
 
 
 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.
 
Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.
 
Ion


 
Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT
Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com
 
 
Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN
 


Re: LED lights

Tom Smith
 



Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Rothwell <tony13rothwell@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Sent: Fri, May 15, 2020 4:01 pm
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

Del,
I agree that power consumption comparisons are interesting for LED lights but the missing link is the rapidly improving amount of light output per electrical watt consumed.
Consider how much light some of the so called headband head-light LED things put out - and the lights on push bikes.
That said, I am not sure how much reliance to place on some of the quoted Lumens figures - some LED's with relatively low numbers seem a lot brighter than those with higher claimed outputs.
     Perhaps a manufacturer honesty measure?
I would like to replace my halogen wing tip lights with push bike LED's but the clever internal switching arrangements have made that not such a simple task.
There is another clever wrinkle to these high power LED's too - the manufacturers build in heat protection circuits which actually switch the LED on and off to keep heat within limits.
Because of the persistence of the eye we do not notice this happening but it does and it introduces RF energy to the wiring.
But when it is all added up, LED's are getting better every day and are the way to go.

On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 08:35, Del Schier <cozypilot@...> wrote:
Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  
 
The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.
 
The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.
 
Del Schier
Cozy IV N197DL
Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL
 
 
 
From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights
 
Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.
 
Greg Norman
 
On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Tom, 
 
 
$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...
 
 
 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.
 
Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.
 
Ion


 
Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT
Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com
 
 
Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN
 


Re: LED lights

Jim Evans
 

Photos?


On Fri, May 15, 2020, 20:28 Greg Norman <gnorm76@...> wrote:
I get the latest obsession of LED landing lights (like carbon fiber) but there's your local bone yard full of OEM Zenon and LED hedlamps of high quality and cheap. Bought my pair from a wrecked Mercedes and ley are awesome. And I can go to the local auto pars store for replacement parts. Done in a weekend and back to building.

Greg Norman

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Tom, 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?



 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

Ion


 
Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com


Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN



Re: LED lights

David A Froble
 

On 5/15/2020 7:24 PM, Jim Evans wrote:
It seems like y'all are finally getting around to addressing my original
question. It appears in order to get to the required brightness needed
for landing light, will have to deal with unwanted heat which makes
using them anywhere near wing foam such as winglets a significant
challenge. Which goes back to my original question, how do you deal with
the heat?

Jim
I guess if one were to insulate an LED one might build up some heat.

I purchased a pair of the cheap LED lights a year or two ago. Advertised as 180 watts. Didn't want to play around with the 36 watt stuff.

In purchasing some lighting stuff last year, I found out that the sellers were specifying the total wattage, and lumens, for a pair, not each. Got to watch the slippery sellers. I was also advised that the lumens depended on the power, ie; wattage.

So I put one on my tractor. The light was exceptional. The heat was, well, absent. I never felt any heat. Note, the light was in open air, and had some aluminum fins, not much, but I'd guess there was some cooling.

These things are real cheap. Best I could say is get some and experiment. You can always find some use for them.

Another consideration is how long the landing lights would be powered? Possibly not long enough for heat to be an issue.

But, back to your question. If you find any heat build up, perhaps some ventilation would help. Not sure what would be the best, considering drag. Would want to retain slipperiness.

Now for my question(s).

I'm considering a nose mounted light.

What thickness plexiglass (if plexiglass) should be used.
Will Plexiglass when heated form (fall) into a mold?
Or is draping it over a mold better?

Going to do some playing around. Looking for some good starting points.

--
David Froble Tel: 724-529-0450
Dave Froble Enterprises, Inc. E-Mail: davef@tsoft-inc.com
DFE Ultralights, Inc.
170 Grimplin Road
Vanderbilt, PA 15486


Re: LED lights

Greg Norman
 

I get the latest obsession of LED landing lights (like carbon fiber) but there's your local bone yard full of OEM Zenon and LED hedlamps of high quality and cheap. Bought my pair from a wrecked Mercedes and ley are awesome. And I can go to the local auto pars store for replacement parts. Done in a weekend and back to building.

Greg Norman

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Tom, 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?



 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

Ion


 
Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com


Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN



Re: LED lights

Jim Evans
 

It seems like y'all are finally getting around to addressing my original question. It appears in order to get to the required brightness needed for landing light, will have to deal with unwanted heat which makes using them anywhere near wing foam such as winglets a significant challenge. Which goes back to my original question, how do you deal with the heat?

Jim

On Fri, May 15, 2020, 19:02 Tony Rothwell <tony13rothwell@...> wrote:
Del,
I agree that power consumption comparisons are interesting for LED lights but the missing link is the rapidly improving amount of light output per electrical watt consumed.
Consider how much light some of the so called headband head-light LED things put out - and the lights on push bikes.
That said, I am not sure how much reliance to place on some of the quoted Lumens figures - some LED's with relatively low numbers seem a lot brighter than those with higher claimed outputs.
     Perhaps a manufacturer honesty measure?
I would like to replace my halogen wing tip lights with push bike LED's but the clever internal switching arrangements have made that not such a simple task.
There is another clever wrinkle to these high power LED's too - the manufacturers build in heat protection circuits which actually switch the LED on and off to keep heat within limits.
Because of the persistence of the eye we do not notice this happening but it does and it introduces RF energy to the wiring.
But when it is all added up, LED's are getting better every day and are the way to go.

On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 08:35, Del Schier <cozypilot@...> wrote:

Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  

 

The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.

 

The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.

 

Del Schier

Cozy IV N197DL

Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL

 

 

 

From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

 

Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.

 

Greg Norman

 

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Tom, 

 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?

 

$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...

 

 

 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

 

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

 

Ion



 

Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com

 

 

Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN

 


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Bob Holliston
 

Here's the pic. of the speed brake gas strut replacement for those horrible springs. I did this at least 10 years ago and it still works fine. I hadn't looked at it in all that time and had forgotten how simple it was to do using all the existing hardware. Don't ask me details about the strut - I can't remember. 


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 4:05 AM Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Thanks for the tip for an alternate spring breaking reason.
 
I get Century springs from Ace Hardware and haven't run into that.
 
Terry Schubert

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Steve" <josteve100@...>
To: "members@canardzone.groups.io" <members@canardzone.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:38:55 -0400

The spring in the pictures look like screen door return springs that are easy to get at Home Depot or Lowes.  I got one from Lowe’s last month that I was going to stretch out and wrap around the exhaust under the carb heat muff.  It broke in three places as I stretched the spring.  I then purchased one from Home Depot that was a different brand.  I was able to stretch the new one without breaking.  I don’t have the packaging anymore but it’s clear that some brands are making very brittle springs.  
 
Steve Sorenson

On Thursday, May 14, 2020, Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700

 

 



--


Re: LED lights

Tony Rothwell
 

Del,
I agree that power consumption comparisons are interesting for LED lights but the missing link is the rapidly improving amount of light output per electrical watt consumed.
Consider how much light some of the so called headband head-light LED things put out - and the lights on push bikes.
That said, I am not sure how much reliance to place on some of the quoted Lumens figures - some LED's with relatively low numbers seem a lot brighter than those with higher claimed outputs.
     Perhaps a manufacturer honesty measure?
I would like to replace my halogen wing tip lights with push bike LED's but the clever internal switching arrangements have made that not such a simple task.
There is another clever wrinkle to these high power LED's too - the manufacturers build in heat protection circuits which actually switch the LED on and off to keep heat within limits.
Because of the persistence of the eye we do not notice this happening but it does and it introduces RF energy to the wiring.
But when it is all added up, LED's are getting better every day and are the way to go.


On Sat, 16 May 2020 at 08:35, Del Schier <cozypilot@...> wrote:

Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  

 

The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.

 

The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.

 

Del Schier

Cozy IV N197DL

Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL

 

 

 

From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

 

Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.

 

Greg Norman

 

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Tom, 

 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?

 

$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...

 

 

 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

 

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

 

Ion



 

Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com

 

 

Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN

 


Re: LED lights

Del Schier
 

Those $14 LED’s are rated at 140 mA, only 2 watts.  The $13 LED’s I used in my Cozy are 36 watts for the pair. They are rated at  2600 Lumens so assuming the same efficiency those Crazed lights are only about 150 Lumens!  

 

The $210 PAR36 LED lights that ACS sells are rated at 14 watts and have a rating of 10,400 Luminous Flux. Not sure what to make of that rating.

 

The standard GE Halogen bulbs are 48 watts and 100,000 candlepower (converts to 7900 lumens}; go figure……….  Maybe we are comparing apples and oranges, but I think comparing LEDs by power means something.  How the beam is focused seems important also.

 

Del Schier

Cozy IV N197DL

Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL

 

 

 

From: members@canardzone.groups.io <members@canardzone.groups.io> On Behalf Of Greg Norman
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 9:51 AM
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] LED lights

 

Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.

 

Greg Norman

 

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Tom, 

 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?

 

$14.00

Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights

We manufacture and sell aircraft parts and accessories for general aviation pilots and airplane builders. From c...

 

 

 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

 

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

 

Ion



 

Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com

 

 

Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN

 


Re: LED lights

Greg Norman
 

Read the disclaimer before wasting your time and money. Fun add-on I suppose.

Greg Norman

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 10:16 PM Ian Huss via groups.io <lisnion=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Tom, 

Did you use theCrazed pilot Bullet LED PAIR - Tiny High Output Landing/Strobe Lights or LED Lights  ?



 They look great but do you think they put out enough light for landing (250 lumens each)? I bet they're fine for taxiing, but landings too? The wigwag controller is a bonus too! Now I gotta figure out where to put yet another switch.

Thanks a bunch, I remember seeing your writeup before but couldn't remember where.

Ion


 
Re: LED lights
From: Tom Smith
Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:02:04 MDT

Yes I sent them both ways. They are from crazedpilot.com


Tom Smith  A&P/IA
Long-EZ N12TS
Cell-707-592-0869
KVCB
KJ6PZN



Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Filipe Rosa
 

On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 04:05 AM, Terry Schubert wrote:
Ace Hardware
Thanks a lot for the info.
Will try a different spring brand.

Filipe


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Terry Schubert
 

Thanks for the tip for an alternate spring breaking reason.
 
I get Century springs from Ace Hardware and haven't run into that.
 
Terry Schubert


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Steve" <josteve100@...>
To: "members@canardzone.groups.io" <members@canardzone.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:38:55 -0400

The spring in the pictures look like screen door return springs that are easy to get at Home Depot or Lowes.  I got one from Lowe’s last month that I was going to stretch out and wrap around the exhaust under the carb heat muff.  It broke in three places as I stretched the spring.  I then purchased one from Home Depot that was a different brand.  I was able to stretch the new one without breaking.  I don’t have the packaging anymore but it’s clear that some brands are making very brittle springs.  

 
Steve Sorenson

On Thursday, May 14, 2020, Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700

 

 


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Bob Holliston
 

10 or so years ago I substituted those nasty springs with a gas strut on a friends LongEZ. . I can't remember exactly how I did it. I know it's been working fine all these years. I'll get a pic. of it in the next couple days. Most people have gone to the electric actuator setup and it saves a little weight. 


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 2:40 PM Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700



--


Re: [c-a] Change Day VFR only op limitations, was LED lights

Gene
 

Howdy Joe, you mean the Sweetwater FSDO?? I'm right on the border between what used to be the SA and the Fort Worth FSDOs before they went to the N. Texas / S. Texas setup they have now.  There was a LOT of difference between those two FDSOs in the past and I assume this applies all around the country..

 Now, as for TSO equipment required in an experimental aircraft, this is about the same as the FAA enforcing an AD compliance on an experimental, it can't be done and I do have this on a very good source who wishes he could do something about the VE/LE nosegear fork.
  If I had a DAR (and I have assisted DAR airworthiness inspections) start to invent requirements like requiring TSO parts on an experimental I'd certainly find someone else and  at least put the word out about that particular DAR.. For that matter there are some certificated aircraft that don't require TSO parts.


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Steve
 

The spring in the pictures look like screen door return springs that are easy to get at Home Depot or Lowes.  I got one from Lowe’s last month that I was going to stretch out and wrap around the exhaust under the carb heat muff.  It broke in three places as I stretched the spring.  I then purchased one from Home Depot that was a different brand.  I was able to stretch the new one without breaking.  I don’t have the packaging anymore but it’s clear that some brands are making very brittle springs.  

Steve Sorenson


On Thursday, May 14, 2020, Terry Schubert <jschuber@...> wrote:
Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700


Re: Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension

Terry Schubert
 

Many people set the landing brake spring tension ungodly high.  STOP that!
 
It is dangerous for the GIB when a spring breaks and hard for the pilot to open during normal operation. 
 
The brake should blow shut above 95 kts to prevent structure damage.  That closing pressure is to be controlled by length of the slot in the floor NOT by adding monster spring tension.  Study the geometry.  The push rod and the linkage should never be near straight or ever over center.
 
If your brake doesn't blow shut by itself at 95 kts then the floor slot is too long - shorten the slot so as to limit forward travel of the push rod.  That lowers the required spring pressure.  The plans spring is PLENTY strong.
 
Spring wire is sensitive to scratches and is more likely to break when scratched by pulling pliers that have slipped off the end of the spring or by folks that have attempted to reform the hook on the end.  An excessively sharp bend  increases the chance of spring failure.
 
 
Terry Schubert
retired Central States Association Newsletter Editor

Please note: message attached

From: "Filipe Rosa" <filiperosa@...>
To: members@canardzone.groups.io
Subject: [Canard Zone] Long-Ez Speed Brake spring tension
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 12:53:54 -0700

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